Porsche Special Tool 9201

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Porsche Special Tool 9201 Average ratng: 3,5/5 6489 reviews
  1. Porsche Special Tools And Equipment
  2. Porsche Special Tool 9201
  3. Porsche Special Tool 9201

Is the original Reddit auto repair community, with over 110,000 subscribers and growing. We look forward to helping everyone with their car repairs and questions, but please take the time to read this sidebar.Post disappeared? Read the following guidelines, and if you think it still is relevant, message the mods to free it from the spam filter. Content GuidelinesPlease be polite. Treat those asking for help with respect, and answer without bias toward them, their situation, or their knowledge (or lack thereof) about the repair issues.

Tool kit bag (this was a spare tool kit bag and tools for my 912 Porsche). Original Porsche tools. 356 Porsche original shifter knob. Drop Forged Steel Germany 12&13 (I believe this is an original too.

Also respect those that take the time to answer questions and remember that many are professional mechanics, who normally get paid very well to diagnose automotive repairs.This subreddit is MAINLY for specific DIY mechanical-type car repairs. 'X is broken, how do I replace it?'

'Y is making noise, what should be inspected/replaced to resolve it?' We're here to help you fix your car on your own, but not to assist in negotiating with mechanics (this is business/life advice, not repair advice) or to perform non-repair related modifications. (you're better off finding a manufacturer specific forum).MEMES ARE OK FOR A WHILEGet OBD codes! If you have a Check Engine (CEL) or Service Engine (SEL) Soon light on, get the codes read and have them available if possible befoer posting. You can have codes read at Auto Zone, Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, etc., for free in most states. Write them down.

Porsche Special Tools And Equipment

Porsche Special Tool 9201

They will have a letter followed by four numbers, for example 'P1234'. You can get a code reader that works with 1996 and up vehicles for about $15 here: It will let you read and reset the codes.Some examples of things that are NOT GENERALLY ALLOWED: links to articles or videos that are for profit, professional-level body work repairs, detailing or cleaning questions, aftermarket car stereo questions , car reviews , new & used vehicle recommendations, price comparisons for tires, stereos, exhaust, etc, or parts searches (where do I get a.?), and especially questions regarding cost of repairs or the legitimacy of a mechanic's quote.

Remember that posting here is not a substitute for using Google. Most repairs have already been covered multiple times somewhere in great depth that will satisfy your needs. YouTube has many helpful topics.If you still aren't sure about something you are about to post, please look at the links down below for other subreddits that might be better suited for your question, or message the moderators.Have as much information as you can about the issue before posting.

Attempt to investigate the repair issue on your own. Take pictures, crawl under the car, look under the hood. By making a good attempt to narrow down where and what may be causing the problem you save those trying to help many steps in diagnosing the problem. Be sure to also include the year, make, model and engine size of you car in your title, along with your main issue. For example '2003 Ford Crown Victoria 4.6L exhaust manifold bolts rusted off' would be an acceptable post title. If you do not take the time to include this basic information your post may be removed until it is revised.Report posts and comments that fall outside the guidelines.

By actively helping the moderators with this you ensure that the community continues to be a worthwhile and knowledgeable resource for car repairs.Also check out our friends at:. An employee at the local auto parts store called me and asked if I could fix his '84 944. It had been sitting for 10 years. It would start and run, but poorly. I discovered someone had installed injectors that weren't even close to being correct.

New injectors=hey look, it actually runs pretty well!This means that I've been asked to just go ahead and fix everything, as it's getting pressed into daily driver use. I told him that a timing belt and a balance shaft belt should go on before it's driven any real distance. Something about a 45k mile interval.Reading up on this procedure reveals that a special tool is 'essential'. Porsche forums are all over the board with opinion.So, does anyone make a suitable aftermarket tensioning tool? Anyone have a factory tool I can borrow for a few days?

Is there a foolproof method of eyeballing it?Thanks for your time. Those are only a couple of tools for dealing with pulleys. You need a proper tensioning gauge to get the timing belt and balance shaft belt correctly tensioned or you will overheat, throw the belt and trash valves/piston tops, or wear out the water pump and pulleys long before the next service interval resulting in breaking or throwing one or both belts.Yes, plenty of people think that twisting the timing belt 1/4 of a turn at it's longest point and the balance shaft belt 1/2 turn at it's longest point is good enough. And it just might be.sometimes.I've had more than a few people bring me their cars after a home belt job like this to set the final tension. Sometimes they were OK, most times they were not. But the proper tools aren't all that expensive and it's a job that needs to be done every 3 years anyway.

Yes, you should. Even if you've done them before it's really easy to get the tension wrong, have it work fine for a while and then have it start slipping on the water pump and/or trash the rollers long before the service interval for the next check or change.You will also need offset wrenches (which you can probably make/bend up). If you want to take off the balance shaft cams you also need pin spanners.There are in fact very nice aftermarket tools available from Bruce Arrn.I've got the full kit including the flywheel lock.PM me and we might be able to arrange something, but we'd need to come up with some sort of escrow/security. We're talking about $300 worth of tools here.If the guy intends to keep this car it's really worth it for him to buy the tool set.

Porsche Special Tool 9201

It will save him money in the long run. I talked to him and told him the tools were necessary, and I pointed him to the arnnworx website. He got the full kit. I told him he was the best customer ever.Now I've got the gauge cluster and center console pulled out, chasing the stupidest short circuit ever. The green negative wire from the ignition coil makes its way back to the DME, branching off to the alarm and the tach. Somewhere along the way, it shorts out against the blue alternator excitation wire. It won't start with the blue wire attached to the alternator, but the alternator will charge if you momentarily excite it.

What a pain in the ass. Slowly and surely.

These cars (and as you know, cars in general) HATE to sit. Min gets cranky after only a few weeks.And make sure you pull off those foot-ball shaped things on the back of the cluster and clean the contacts with some dexoit and/or a pencil eraser. It magically fixes a lot of weird problems.Other common 944 resurrection issues I can think of: make sure the AFM barn door moves freely. You may even want to check it electrically and/or retrack it if necessary.And I've seen a LOT of these cars with crazy electrical problems that were driving their owners insane that came down to the ignition switch going bad. It's a little plastic piece of crap and the plastic weld that hold it together is probably failing by now if it's the original part.

It's cheap and easy to replace and you can probably get a good idea of it's condition by just getting your hand up in there and trying to push/pull it apart.The sunroof still opens by itself, and will only close with the ignition off,That's a new one on me. Usually they close by themselves when you start moving or don't move at all because the little 'button' that the triangle on the front of the sunroof (the removable part) is stuck either in or out.Also, do you know how the roof is supposed to work in regards to removal? It's totally non-intuitive. I can see where someone was prying at the switch with a screwdriver.

Porsche Special Tool 9201

This fills me with confidence. The sunroof switch had been replaced by the owner, at some unknown time in the past. It appears to ohm out good. I'm still looking for grounds; The one above the blower motor is hilariously bad. I have no idea how to take the sunroof apart, I've barely even looked at it.

Oh, and the wipers don't park. They just run forever.I think it's the radio relay that clicks and stays on whenever the battery cables are attached, but I'm not sure.

Whatever it is, it's buried in the center of the dash.As you can see, I'm slowly chugging away at it, but there is so much stupid stuff. I'm glad he's not in a hurry!. There is so much stupid stuff.Unfortunately a lot of these cars ended up getting 'worked on' by idiot teenagers as they got cheaper. The good thing is that they are relatively simple.So, FYI.if the key is at the first click and you push the sunroof switch down it should go down. If it's already down you should hear the motor run some more and stop.

This just pulled the lifter arms OUT of the sunroof entirely so the back side should be free.