Battery 1: This battery is not available for use. Battery 2: 40% (or whatever) I opened Device Manager and I see two devices listed under the 'batteries' section, both of them called 'Battery with Microsoft ACPI-compliant control method' (translating from Spanish, which is my system language, so it.

1. This Battery Is Not Available For Use Free

Yesterday, after I had finished writing an article, I decided to unplug my laptop and go downstairs to relax on the sofa in the living room. Frustratingly, the one plug close to the sofa was in need of repair and the other outlet was too far away to plug my laptop into. I instead decided to just run the computer off the battery for a while.Once it started to get a bit low in charge, I went back upstairs to plug it in, with about twenty minutes of. And that’s when it hit me: It wasn’t charging. I thought the battery was fine as it was the original and looked OK when its.

This Battery Is Not Available For Use Free

Being an original battery meant it was also less likely to cause unforeseen problems than some.The first thing I did was panic, which in hindsight wasn’t the wisest thing to do. Panicking while the battery is still discharging will only lead to more problems and unclear thinking. After a few moments, I stopped to think while shutting down my laptop about what the causes for this issue could be. A little while later I came up with a few ways to allow the battery to start charging again.

Is Windows Causing the Problem?The first thing you obviously need to find out, is whether the problem of your battery not charging properly is related to an issue within Windows or the battery itself. There have been instances over the years where Windows had problems with batteries including the infamous Windows 7 “Considering replacing the battery” error, which was patched later with a hotfix.A good way to find out if the battery is the problem or not, would be to load an alternative operating system such as a. Obviously you don’t need a full blown 1GB+ distro, and using one of a few hundred Megabytes should suffice.

Is great for this being only around 220MB. Alternatively you can use a Live Windows/repair CD such as the great or if you have a dual boot system, can simply see if the problem occurs on the other install.If you still can’t get the battery to charge properly from another operating system, it may just be the fact that there is a problem with the battery itself and it may need to be checked by an expert or replaced. If your battery works as it should in Linux then you can trace the fault to being Windows related, and some of the solutions to fix the problem on the next page could help. HP Probook 5330m; Win7 Pro, SP1. (NOT updated, btw.)Have had this problem for over two years. First time it happened was when I was in England on a research trip and using the computer on battery at the British Library for lengthy periods of time (not something I normally need to do). The battery went down to warning levels, but plugging it in did not help.

Thought my adapter plug was faulty, but that was not it either. Took it to a computer shop in in London and the tech there fiddled with the power cord and still couldn’t get it to charge.He finally removed the battery to check the serial number, and when he put it back in it magically started charging. We concluded I had a flaky power cord socket on the computer, and I ordered a new one at home (needed a N.A. Model, not the U.K. Model they had available), but it never came in.Just as well: The problem is not the power cord, or the socket in the computer. It is this stupid software problem which simply will not go away.The workaround is to keep an eye on the battery level, and BEFORE it gets below 40% or so, REMOVE THE BATTERY WHILE THE MACHINE IS BOOTED UP AND RUNNING ON AC POWER.

Then count to 30 and re-install the battery. The battery icon in the taskbar will show a warning popup ‘Battery Not Detected’ for a few seconds, then the graphics in the icon will start to ‘pump’ and the battery will start to charge normally. When it gets to 100%, it will show ‘Plugged in, Fully Charged.’ And it will stop charging, and won’t start again until you repeat the process I have just described above.The battery will discharge slowly over time even though the machine is plugged in. If you run your laptop on AC almost all the time as I do, it will take a month or so for the battery to discharge to the point where you really should force it to charge again. I try to do that at around 40-50%.Have done this 15 or 20 times over the last year and a half, and it always works.BTW, uninstalling that Windows battery controller application did absolutely no good whatsoever. Just so you know.

My experience with a HP note book that refuses to charge and will not start from the mains adapter. This note book runs Linux so no Windows issues.Checked the mains adapterOK 18 voltsChecked the voltage on the motherboard at the battery connectionOK againChanged mother board and the hard drive new batterystill the same will not chargeBack to the mains adapter noticed that the charge light comes on for may be 10 sec then goes out so checked the mains adapter again (not hp generic Chinese unit). This time on switch on the voltage was 18.3 then it would fall to 17.5 then recover to 18.3 then fall again to 17.5. We are currently awaiting delivery of a HP mains adapter.We checked a few other generic mains adapters and found voltage variations of up to 3v from the declared output. We also checked a Uniross mains adapter (quite a large unit) and it was 100% accurate, seems you get what you pay for.

Had same problem with HP6530b laptop after upgrading to Windows 10.To make charging work:1. In the search bar type: device manager (open it)2. Under batteries my computer has (3) entries: (1) Microsoft AC adapter and (2) Microsoft ACPI-Complient Control Battery Method.

Left click on the 3rd item to select: Microsoft ACPI-Complient Control Battery Method. The right click and select disable, then exit.3.

Went into BIOS by restarting the computer and hit esc key during start up.4. Select system settings and disable (1) 2nd battery fast charging (2) wakeup on LAN. Save and exit.Hope this work for you also.

I’ve had my TOSHIBA UltraBook for just about over 2 years and a month ago it started the “plugged, not charging’ situation and i got really frustrated! I searched up many solutions and it did not work, so then i tried to figure it out by myself and it worked BUT! TODAY it happened again and now i have no solution left to use!!!!!! IM URGENT FOR A SOLUTION! I cant take out the battery because i just can’t its not possible. Ive tried uninstalling the method battery thing in device manager and restarting but that didn’t work either!!!

Start menu 8 serial key. HELP ME PLEASE!